New York Immigrant Designers Seek Copyright Recognition for 1992 Footwear Designs
TL;DR
East Village Shoe Repair's copyright claim could establish legal precedent protecting small designers from corporate appropriation of original designs.
The case applies Star Athletica's two-step separability test to ornamental shoe features with 1992 prototypes and affidavits as evidence.
This legal action recognizes immigrant artisans' creative contributions and ensures grassroots creators receive proper attribution for their cultural innovations.
East Village Shoe Repair prototyped sneaker hybrids like faux fur sneakers and thigh-high boots decades before major brands adopted similar designs.
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The legal team for Boris Zuborev and East Village Shoe Repair has filed copyright applications for six specific footwear designs created in 1992, contending these works represent immigrant ingenuity that informed streetwear trends long before mass-market iterations appeared. The applications cover the Moccasin Sneaker Hybrid, 70's Lux Sole Sneaker, Zipper Closure Sneaker with Faux Eyelets, Faux Fur Sneaker, Knee/Thigh High Sneaker Boot Hybrid, and High Heel Feminized Work Boot. According to their legal filing, these designs share ornamental features with later products marketed by companies including Converse and Timberland.
The designers have submitted original 1992 prototypes, dated photographs, and affidavits as evidence of their early creation. Their legal argument centers on applying the Supreme Court's Star Athletica v. Varsity Brands decision consistently, claiming the ornamental elements meet the required separability standards. The designers contend that each shoe contains original ornamental features that are perceptible as pictorial, graphic, or sculptural works separate from the shoes' utilitarian functions. Their legal team argues the Copyright Office examiner explicitly found the contested features "have sculptural qualities" and could be "conceptually removed" and "imagined in another medium," yet still denied copyrightability in what they characterize as an internal contradiction.
This case highlights the broader cultural significance of recognizing creative labor from immigrant communities whose contributions often go undocumented in corporate histories. During the late 1980s and early 1990s, immigrant artisans in the East Village transformed thrift and surplus materials into distinct ornamental details and hybrid silhouettes, contributing to a vibrant local design ecology that fed into broader fashion trends. The recognition sought would acknowledge not only individual authorship but the creative practices of these communities.
The evidence includes side-by-side comparative images showing their 1992 prototypes alongside later commercial products. For instance, their Moccasin Sneaker Hybrid prototype from 1992 appears alongside what they identify as a later Converse "All Star Moccasin" product. Similar comparisons are made for the 70's Lux Sole Sneaker against Converse Chuck 70 De Luxe variants, and the High-Heel Feminized Work Boot against later Timberland products. Of the 30 applications filed this year, 15 have been granted registration, 6 remain pending, and 9 were withdrawn with rights reserved.
The designers are seeking administrative registration and public attribution while inviting negotiated licensing discussions with the companies whose later products allegedly share ornamental features with their original designs. They have preserved all legal remedies should administrative relief not be granted. Designer Boris Zuborev stated, "These silhouettes were prototyped and publicly worn in 1992; we ask that the record reflect that origin." Collaborator Eugene Finkelberg added, "When ornamental artistry is original and distinct, copyright should protect grassroots creators." The case represents a significant test of how copyright protection applies to functional items with artistic elements and could set important precedent for protecting the work of independent designers against corporate appropriation.
Curated from 24-7 Press Release
